No matter where you come from if you ever visited Kraków and if you ever saw photos from the city, there are 2 landmarks that this magical place is the most connected to Wawel Castle and the Sukiennice (EN: Cloth Hall). Every resident of the city knows it but might you also know its history?
The term Sukiennice refers to the trade of textiles and fabric, which is why it is also called Kraków’s Cloth Hall. Right now, it is daily visited by thousands of locals and tourists, that just pass through Old Town Kraków or that want to just stay still and enjoy the view. Being one of the biggest tourist attractions in Kraków, you can surely spend some more time on it, buying some souvenirs or enjoying a lemonade at Cafe Szal (on the 1st floor – trust me, the view is WORTH IT!).
Sukiennice – its beginnings and the great fire!
The history of Sukiennice (EN: Cloth Hall) begins with the history of Kraków in the mid-13th century. Part of the process of establishing Kraków was to indicate the place where the most important thing for the city would take place: trading goods. Therefore, a rectangular area was marked out in the middle of the Market Square for stalls in two rows, closed on the shorter sides with bars. Prince Bolesław the Chaste promised to build stalls for the people to sell their goods and he stuck to his word!
This place/area was turned into a brick building in the times of Casimir the Great. In the 14th century, he approved to make it into a real, Gothic market building made of red brick. Fast-forwarding to 2 centuries later: Sukiennice was destroyed by fire and only a few parts survived.
Its Renaissance form, known to all, with a characteristic attic and unique architectural details, is the result of a reconstruction in the 16th century and renovation in the 19th century. The Sukiennice is surrounded by arcades on all sides – giving it an unique look and being the top location to take very Instagram friendly photos. Inside the Sukiennice there is a vaulted ceiling and there are crests of Poland’s cities on the walls.
Not all the original Sukiennice pieces remain
To be noted that before the aforementioned renovation, the Sukiennice had outbuildings that do not exist today, which in the middle of the penultimate century were, like many Kraków buildings, in a deplorable condition. Hence, it was decided to demolish them and restore the Cloth Hall. In addition, it was decided that on the first floor, in a place where various kinds of trinkets were sold in the past centuries, the National Museum will be located.
The branch of the National Museum of Kraków holds the largest permanent exhibit of 19th-century Polish painting and sculpture, in 4 grand exhibition halls arranged by historical period and the theme extending into an entire artistic epoch. It is definitely worth your time and money!
The Sukiennice (Cloth Hall) today
So what does the Cloth Hall look like today? What is its function?
It is difficult to answer with one sentence because its function is multiple. Currently, it is the seat of branches of 2 museums – the Gallery of 19th-Century Polish Art of the National Museum of Kraków and the Underground Market Museum. Sukiennice (EN: Cloth Hall) also has stalls, souvenir shops, restaurants, including one of the icons of Krakow’s café life, the Noworolski Cafe.
It is also a living lesson in history and art because we can see, for example, a symbol of the Magdeburg Law, which was used in Kraków in the past. You can also find out where torches illuminating the darkness in the past centuries were put out (hint: check the side of the Sukiennice, as you enter – a set of small holes in the side).
Today I thought I might do something special with you: take you on a ride of 30 Typical Things One Could Do In Krakow 🙂 if ever you are in the area. These things are something that I do quite often, things that a local (a Cracovian) would do, things that you should also try (at least once) in order to feel the vibe of the city. So without further ado… here is the list:
1. Enjoy the view of the Barbakan (The Barbican) – the fortified outpost is a great spot to take many lovely pictures or just rest on a bench in the Planty area (the green park/circle around the Old Town). #DidYouKnow it is one of only 3 such fortified outposts still surviving in Europe? And it is also the best-preserved one!
2. Start the Royal Tour on the Royal Road that links the Barbakan – Brama Florianska (St. Florian’s Gate) – Florianska Street – Main Square to Grodzka – Wawel Castle. If you live in Krakow you probably lost count of how many times you want by foot on these cobble-stoned roads.
3. Enjoy the little entrances and pieces if unique architecture on the Florianska street – don’t just look at the shops (they will stay there for the next time you will pass through), but raise your eyes to the first floor or even above and see all the beautiful bits and pieces from the facade. These buildings have survived centuries and have so much to tell!
Vie of Mariacki Kosciol from the Underground Museum in Krakow, Poland
4. Make sure you get in front of the Mariacki Kosciol (St.Mary’s Church) a few minutes before the hour strikes and you listen to the Hejnal – it does have it is own legend 😉 so make sure to read it! When the trumpet stops paying, wave to the man in the tower – if he waves back it brings good luck!
5. Go inside the Mariacki Kosciol and listen to the ceremony. You might not understand it, but if you sit quietly and you pray, you might want to look up to the sky (that is… the ceiling). The ceiling is all blue, like the sky at dawn, and there are hundreds of sparkling stars on it. It was painted by the great Polish Painter: Jan Matejko.
Krakow’s Main Market Square and its pigeons
6. Do not feed the pigeons! Only the foreigners, the visitors do that, and it is something that is very much frowned upon nowadays. They are called “Flying rats” as they love to spread the diseases…
The view from Cafe Szal (Sukiennice) – Krakow, Poland
7. Get on the 1st floor of the Sukiennice (The Cloth Hall) – the entrance on the Mariacki Church side, close to the middle. Take the stairs/lift up to the 1st floor and enjoy a szarlotka (that is Polish for apple pie) at Cafe Szal. The view is AMAZING!
8. If you are at the Main Square at lunch, you need to drop by the Pod Sukiennice and have a traditional meal. Sundays the specialty of the house is rosol (that’s is Polish for chicken soup/broth with noodles).
They also have a mean Creme Brulee in Charlotte 😉 – Plac Szczepanski, Krakow, Poland
9. If you are around the Main square at breakfast time you can queue for something really nice at Charlotte, on Plac Szczepanski. The place does not take reservations and it is always full so you will have to stand in line… but they do have homemade goodies!
10. You should take a small detour to the Jagiellonian University quarters and listen to Gaudeamus Igitur and typical Polish song played by the clock inside the Collegium Maius courtyard. It plays at 11, 13, 15 o’clock each day. Not many know about it, it is a hidden gem. It is not like the Prague astronomy clock but still, it is worth your time 🙂
Hot chocolate at Nowa Prowincja – Krakow, Poland
11. If the weather outside is gloomy, raining, or freezing cold… I always like to head over to Nowa Prowincja. It has the best hot chocolate in town! They come with whipped cream and sour cherry alcohol inside!
12. Many locals also prefer the Pijalnia Czekolady Wedel when they wish for chocolate or they have a sweet tooth. You can order chocolate to go, or you can have it on the spot at the Main Market Square or in Galeria Krakowska.
13. As we are still on the topic of food, I believe it is worth mentioning one of the best homemade food places in Krakow: Babcia Malina (that is Polish for Grandmother Raspberry). There are 2 places: one on Slawkowska and one just in front of the Juliusz Slowacki Theater. You can always order take-away (we do that often…). They have the best deep-fried meat pierogi & the best zurek in town!
St. Peter and Paul’s Church, Grodzka – Krakow, Poland
14. Have a look at the only baroque church in Krakow: St. Peter and Paul’s Church (Sw. Piotr i Pawla) on Grodzka. The front always remained me of the Vatican DO let me know if you get the same vibe from it 🙂
15. Go visit the “Kings of Old” – The Wawel Cathedral holds the tombs of all the Kings and Queens of Poland. It is worth your while, just for the history lesson alone.
16. Go see the biggest bell in Krakow (probably of all Poland!): Sigismund Bell. It rings only on special occasions. The Bell used to ring when a King would die or when a new one would be coronated; it also did for the death of Pope John Paul the 2nd. It is said that if a young maiden touches it, then luck will come upon them and they shall be married within the year! The bell takes at least 4 grown men to start moving it…
A view of the Wawel Cathedral – Krakow, Poland
17. If it is summertime, take a stride in the inner garden and courtyard of the Wawel Castle. In springtime, when the magnolia blossoms, it is indeed a sight for sore eyes!
18. If you are a yoga/pilates enthusiast, you might like to know that one of the 7 chakra points in the world is located inside Wawel’s Castle inner courtyard. There are many people who come visit, lean against the wall, touch it, stroke it, and “get inspired”!
19. I don’t know about you, but I absolutely love museums. Every Sunday the Krakow National Museum branches are open for free. Mondays they are usually all closed down, resuming the activity fresh Tuesday morning. Visiting museums for free, on Sunday’s, is a very local thing 😉
The mummies at the Czartoryski Museum – Krakow, Poland
20. If you are in love with paintings, you should know that “The Lady With The Ermine” by Leonardo Da Vinci (his second most famous painting after the “Mona Lisa”) can be found at the National Museum in Krakow. And you can see it way more up-close-and-personal than the Smiling Mona. It is not crowded and miles away!
21. In love with history and especially ancient history? Then you should definitely drop by and check out the mummies (including one of a cat!) & read parts of The Book of Dead at the Czartoryski Museum.
22. A stroll along the Vistula River is always a very pleasurable thing to do. You can admire the sunset over the water and feed the swans or the seagulls.
23. Visit the KładkaOjca Bernatka – the “pedestrian bridge only” in Krakow. It also is named Love Locks Bridge as people tend to put locks and throw away the key (in the name of love). At nighttime it is very colourful and the artistic sculptures/installations make it even more attractive.
Vistula River & Kładka Ojca Bernatka- Krakow, Poland
24. Do go and pay your respects at the Plac Bohaterow Ghetta (The Square of The Heroes of the Ghetto). #DidYouKnow that each chair there signifies 1000 of people that were killed in the labor camps of Auschwitz and Plaszow? Do not sit on them – it is disrespectful!
25. If you enjoy StreetArt, Krakow has some amazing pieces to offer for the eye – most of them are in Old Town, Kazimierz, and Podgorze. Take the stroll along the Vistula River, as I have mentioned, and you will for sure see the floating pink pig on the waters… funny thing 😉
Kazimierz Mural – Krakow, Poland
26. A very local thing to do, when going out to part in Kazimierz, is to drop by and eat sausage from the communist blue van. Located in front of Hala Targowa, the van can be found during the weekends – it is hard to miss out on it, just follow the people queueing in! They may not be the best ones, but they are a 40+-year-old tradition. The place has been there since the 80s!
27. Partying in Kazimierz is a must, and the fast-food of choice is always the same: zapiekanka at Plac Nowy. That is kinda like a pizza… a baguette sliced in half – the long way – and with a lot of toppings. People say that Endzior makes the best, but I have found that others in Plac Nowy make great ones too. Also… when you are hammered… they all taste the same!
28. There are 4 mounds in Krakow – Polish people name them Kopiec.My favourites are Kopiec Koszciuski and Krakusa – pick one that you would like and make sure you get there before sunset. Sunset on Kopiec gets you a large view of the city and peaceful surroundings where you can enjoy the sun setting down – great photo opportunities also!
29. Enjoy one of the smaller movie theatres and forget those Multiplex, Multikino, Cinema City huge spaces. Go local and enjoy a more intimate space, smaller and different from the rest you can choose from Kino Ars, Kino Pod Baranami, Kino Agrafka, Kino Kijow… They show European selection of movies as well 😉 in Kino Pod Baranami I was even able to see Romanian movies with Polish subs!
Mushrooms hand-picked locally – Nowy Kleparz Market – Krakow, Poland
30. Shop locally – at least while in Poland, make sure you try out the local markets. Don’t go buying things from big chains (Carrefour, Auchan) but support the local economy by purchasing products from the local farmers. Make sure you have change though, as you cannot pay by card there. In Krakow, I recommend 2 markets very close to the Old Town: Stary Kleparz and Nowy Kleparz. In Kazmierz you can try Plac Nowy or Hala Targowa.
“Gardens, Courtyards, St. Gereon’s Church” is a new Wawel sightseeing route launched on July 30th, 2020. Walking among inaccessible and charming places, you will be able to see the unique Wawel.
“Gardens, Courtyards, St. Gereon’s Church” – NEW Wawel sightseeing route Photo by Anna Kaczmarz – Dziennik Polski – Polska Press
“Lost Wawel” exhibition & the new route
The “Gardens, Courtyards, St. Gereon’s Church” route begins with the “Lost Wawel” exhibition, on the model of the 18th-century Wawel Castle.
The next points of the route are: Courtyard called Batory, the archaeological and architectural reserve of the church of St. Gereon and the Church of St. Mary of Egypt, the Arcade Courtyard, the entrance hall called Tatarska, the northern slopes of the castle and the Royal Gardens.
“Gardens, Courtyards, St. Gereon’s Church” – NEW Wawel sightseeing route Photo by Adam Wojnar – Polska Press
Opening hours and prices
The route is open on dry days from 30 July. Visiting the route takes approx. 90 minutes and is only possible with a guide.
Tickets are 25 PLN and 15 PLN reduced.
Make sure to put that on your list 😉
Yours truly,
The Twisted Red LadyBug, Bringing You The Latest News 🙂
On the day Karol Kot celebrated his high school diploma, militia knocked on his apartment. All of Kraków could breathe a sigh of relief. The two-year-old nightmare has ended.
As Wikipedia points out, a serial killer is typically a person who murders three or more people, usually in service of abnormal psychological gratification, with the murders taking place over more than a month and including a significant period of time between them. While most authorities set a threshold of three murders, others extend it to four or lessen it to two.
Although psychological gratification is the usual motive for serial killing, and most serial killings involve sexual contact with the victim, the Federal Bureau of Investigation (FBI) states that the motives of serial killers can include anger, thrill-seeking, financial gain, and attention-seeking. The murders may be attempted or completed in a similar fashion. The victims may have something in common, for example, demographic profile, appearance, gender, or race. A serial killer is neither a mass murderer nor a spree killer, although there may be conceptual overlaps between serial killers and spree killers.
A Youtube video of the history of Karol Kot and his murders – by Discovery Channel – (in Polish language) – Poland
Who was Karol Kot?
Karol Kot (18 December 1946 – 16 May 1968) was a Polish serial killer who terrorized the city of Kraków. Kraków was the city he was born and raised in, until his capture in June 1966. Due to trial evidence and to the seemingly random choices of victims, which included children and elderly people, Kot was nicknamed the “Vampire of Kraków”. After the trial, in which Kot pleaded guilty to all the crimes he was charged, he was sentenced to death on 14 July 1967. After an appeal, the death penalty was reinstated and carried out on 16 May 1968 when Kot was 21 years old.
Karol’s background
Karol Kot, popularly known as “Lolo”, attended the Technical High School in Krakow at Loretańska Street. He came from an intellectual family, his father was an engineer, his mother was a housewife and a social activist. Karol was a member of the National Defense League, the Socialist Youth Union and the Citizens’ Militia Volunteer Reserve.
Karol Kot – “Vampire of Kraków”
There were signs…
When Karol Kot was caught, through further investigation, it turned out that as a high school graduate he was enjoying the abuse of animals. In his cruel aspirations he killed birds, moles or calves. During one of the holidays, he assisted with slaughter at the slaughterhouse. As he mentioned, he loved to drink warm blood.
My parents went on vacation to Pcimia (it’s a hole near Myślenice). It was boring, so I went to the slaughterhouse there and assisted in killing calves. I liked this view and finally tasted warm blood.
Karol Kot – “Vampire of Kraków”
In an interview given later, he said directly that he was killing for pleasure and that if he could, he would kill all the women in the world. He also betrayed his unfulfilled fantasies of orgy, which he wanted to have with his classmates, which were to be tortured. Here is what he told about his interests:
One of my dreams came true, I wanted and I was an executioner of people, although I was thinking about a bigger slaughter, a real big crematorium. If there was a war, I would like to be the head of a concentration camp, cut off the breasts of women and put them under the helmets of soldiers, so that they do not oppress their heads. I dreamed of mass murders in gas chambers, round-ups, quartering people. I wanted to kill all the women, except maybe two – my sister and cousin. Unfortunately, I didn’t make it. I don’t know who lost it.
Karol Kot – “Vampire of Kraków”
Karol Kot – “Vampire of Kraków” – Mug shot
Kraków of the mid-1960s was filled with horror, paralyzed by fear
In the mid-1960s, the inhabitants of Kraków were paralyzed with fear. In particular, older people of Kraków began to be afraid of leaving their homes, fearing a killer attack. Terrified residents began to speculate who might be responsible for the terrible crimes. The beginning of the long chain of fear lasting two years was the event of September 1964, when a stabbed woman was brought to the Kraków hospital.
“Do you know that the easiest way to the heart is through the back?”
Karol Kot – “Vampire of Kraków” – final interview
Quote (Polish Language) from Karol Kot – Poland
The First Victim
September 21st, 1964 – as he later said, something urged him to kill. Karol took two knives with him and went to the city. He concluded that it would be easiest for him to kill some lonely woman praying in church. First he went to the Capuchin church, but he did not find a faithful fit for a potential sacrifice. Then he went to the church of the Monastery of Sercanki at Garncarska St. He waited a long moment before the opportunity arose. 48-year-old Helena W. came to the church, and when she knelt down, “Lolo” pulled out a knife and pushed her in the back. Drunk, he escaped and licked blood at one of the nearby gates. He did not know that the blow he inflicted was not serious and the victim survived.
The murder of a 11 year old boy – Leszek – at Kosciuszko Mound, by Karol Kot
Karol Kot confessed to all his crimes and many more…
In the summer of 1966, the Civic Militia knocked on the door of Kot’s state and he was caught (much to Kot’s surprise, who did not know he has under surveillance for several weeks).
During the interrogations, Kot confessed not only to the two murders and four attempted murders but also to poison and arson attempts. It turned out that he tried to deprive people of life not only with a knife but also by adding sodium arsenate to various liquids. For example, in a bar “Przy Błoniach” he poured the poison into a bottle of vinegar, but he deeply regretted that no one had poisoned himself. He also tried to leave poisoned orangeade and beer in different places.
Karol Kot – “Vampire of Kraków” – in front of the Court
The Death Sentence
Experts for a long time could not judge whether Karol Kot is mentally ill or not. Some of them were of the opinion that he was a psychopath and should be directed to involuntary isolation treatment. He underwent a battery of psychological tests. The prosecutors amassed 8,000 pages of evidence in 18 volumes.
The prosecutor, however, did not accede to these opinions and in the indictment, he presented “Lola” as a healthy person, and only to the bone marrow immoral. Despite the defenders’ position, the accused also tried to present himself as a read and aware person of his actions.
The court did not believe the defenders and sentenced Karol Kot to death. As a result of his appeal, the second instance court turned him into life imprisonment, but as a result of the prosecutor’s intervention, he was again sentenced to death. The sentence, by hanging, was carried out on May 16, 1968.
“Soon, where I’m going, I’ll meet with my victims, and we can speak. Here on Earth, I have no one to talk to.”
Karol Kot – “Vampire of Kraków” – final interview
Karol Kot – “Vampire of Kraków” – front cover for Nasza Historia (Our History) Magazine
The… Aftermath?
The autopsy of the corpse, after Karol Kot’s execution, revealed a massive tumor in his brain. It is nowadays widely known and accepted that brain tumors can completely change one’s personality – their thoughts and desires. It may have been bad luck and lack of diagnosis, making his brain tumor grow, and pushing him into doing these unthinkable things… or it might have been just his nature to kill – we will never know…
P.S. You can find more about Macabre Krakow and Karol Kot’s story also by joining in the Macabre Krakow: Free Walking Tour – I sincerely and wholeheartedly recommend it! 🙂
Yours truly,
The Twisted Red LadyBug, Bringing You Scary Stories About Krakow
Letter of intent regarding the creation of the “Museum – Memorial Site of KL Plaszow in Krakow. German Nazi labor and concentration camp (1942-1945) ”was signed by the Ministry of Culture and National Heritage and the City of Krakow. The new museum will cover an area of about 40 hectares and will be a self-government cultural institution of the Krakow City Commune co-run by the Ministry of Culture.
Screenshot from the Letter of Intent, that can be downloaded HERE
Who signed the Letter of Intent?
The signatories of the letter are the deputy prime minister, minister of culture and national heritage prof. Piotr Gliński – represented by Jarosław Sellin, secretary of state in the Ministry of Culture and National Heritage and prof. Jacek Majchrowski, president of Krakow.
Due to the situation caused by the COVID-19 pandemic, the document was signed electronically.
What is this Letter of Intent?
Letter of intent regarding the creation of a new cultural institution called “Museum – Memorial Site of KL Plaszow in Krakow. German Nazi labor camp and concentration camp (1942-1945)” is a declaration of the joint will of the signatories for the proper commemoration of the victims of the German Nazi labor and concentration camp Plaszow by covering the area where the camp was located, institutional protection and establishing a Museum – Memorial Site.
The letter of intent is another important stage in actions taken to commemorate the former German labor and concentration camp in Plaszow. It was preceded by an agreement signed on January 26, 2017 between the City of Krakow, the Jewish Religious Community in Krakow and the Historical Museum of the City of Krakow, constituting a declaration of cooperation between the parties for a dignified commemoration of KL Plaszow. The ordinance of the city president also set up a task force for the KL Plaszow camp coordinating work on the creation of this Memorial Site.
Photo of the Plaszow concentration and labour camp taken 1943-1944 – Unknown Author – Taken from the Institute of National Remembrance
When will the new Museum start operating?
It is planned that “Museum – KL Plaszow Memorial Site in Krakow. German Nazi labor and concentration camp (1942-1945)” will start operating on January 1, 2021, and will be a self-government cultural institution of the city of Krakow, co-run by the Ministry of Culture and National Heritage. The content of the letter assumes the cooperation of the parties to create the Memorial in both financial and substantive terms. It is anticipated that the Krakow City Council will establish a new institution by the end of 2020.
What are the next steps?
In the next stage, an agreement will be signed between the city and the ministry, which will determine the principles of co-running a new museum institution. The estimated time necessary to complete the work on establishing the Museum – Memorial Site and permanent exhibition is estimated at about five years.
KL Plaszow Fot.PAP/J.Bednarczyk
Where will the Museum be built?
The Museum – Memorial Site of KL Plaszow will be built on land belonging to the Municipality of Krakow, the Jewish Community in Kraków, and the Treasury. It will cover an area of approx. 40 hectares, which has been entered in the register of monuments kept by the Małopolska Provincial Conservator of Monuments since 2002, and an adjacent area of approximately 3 hectares.
How will the Museum look like?
The Historical Museum of the City of Krakow, as a substantive supervisor, developed the script for the new Museum – Memorial Site and conducted archeological research in the post-camp area.
According to the scenario, “historical stops” will be created in the post-camp area, ie boards with an archival photo and a short commentary in English. Polish, English, and Hebrew and in the Memorial building a permanent exhibition, thanks to which visitors will learn, among others what historical events led to the creation of concentration camps; learn the history of the liquidation of the Krakow ghetto and the founding and organization of KL Plaszow. The everyday life of prisoners will also be shown. Educators attach great importance to preserving the authenticity of the commemorated place.
Yours sincerly,
The Twisted Red LadyBug, Always Bringing You The Most Up-To-Date Informations About My Beloved Krakow
Is the Wawel Royal Castle on the list of your tourist destinations for 2020-2021? Have you ever visited Wawel Castle? If you have been at least once in Krakow, you – for sure – had this on top of your TO SEE List. 100 years ago this monument underwent a general renovation under the supervision of prof. Adolf Szyszko-Bohusz. Importantly, the goal of the excellent restorer was not only to protect the castle but also to make it available to visitors to the greatest extent possible.
New Wawel Sights on display as of July 1920
The embankments were opened to tourists and a new descent to Dragon’s Cave (Dragon’s Den) was arranged and electric lighting was installed in it. Visitors were also allowed into the rotunda of St. Feliks and Adaukta, probably from the turn of the 10th and 11th centuries.
Krakow Royal Castle and Cathedral – Wawel Hill, Krakow, Poland – Postcard from 1920-1921 – Source: National Library
In an interview given to Rzeczpospolita, published on July 10, 1920, prof. Szyszko-Bohusz made plans for the future. His team was in the process of designing an electric heating installation inside the castle. The future designation of individual rooms was also planned. Today, this plan may surprise some – Wawel was to become primarily a temporary residence of the Chief of State! The 2nd floor was to be occupied by representative rooms, and on the ground floor and the first floor by prof. Szyszko-Bohusz intended to organize a museum. Thank God that plan did not fell through!
Work on Wawel was possible due to Government subsidies
It is worth mentioning that work at Wawel was possible thanks to government subsidies. Like today, 100 years ago they were the main source of financing for the conservation of monuments. Professor Szyszko-Bohusz did not hide, however, that he was counting on the generosity of Poles – private donors. He announced that their names would be immortalized on the walls of Wawel. He fulfilled his promise. Today, going to Wawel along the road to Herbowa Gate, we pass a wall with built-in bricks with the names of the donors. Be sure to devote a moment to them during a holiday trip to Krakow!
Yours sincerly,
The Twisted Red LadyBug – Bringing You Krakow’s History
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