Krakow mounds are elements of the landscape that definitely distinguish our city from other metropolises. 4 built-up structures have dominated the landscape of Krakow for many years. Almost all Cracovians know what Krakow’s mounds look like today. How many mounds actually existed in Krakow, what is their history, what did they look like years ago and how were they built? The photos below are taken from the National Digital Archives.
The History
The oldest mound in Kraków is the Wanda Mound. Located near Huta im. Tadeusz Sendzimir is 14 meters high, it was probably built in the 7th century. According to legend, it is the grave of Wanda, the daughter of Prince Krak. There is a sculpture of an eagle on the top.
A little later, the 16-meter Krakus Mound was to be built, which is located in the Podgórze district of Krakow, near the Liban quarry. Before World War II, the mound was dug up, examined by archaeologists, and then rebuilt. During the works, for many months, the mound looked like a volcano cone with a magnificent crater. Until the post-war years, the mound was surrounded by fortifications, which, unfortunately, have not survived to our times.
In the 19th century, another Krakow mound was created, which was called the Kościuszko Mound. Piled on the hill of St. Bronisława measures over 30 meters, it contains the lands from the battlefields of the Kościuszko Uprising. In the mid-19th century, the mound was surrounded by a fortification, which now houses, among others, a museum, a chapel and the seat of the RMF radio.
5 meters higher than the Kościuszko Mound is the Piłsudski Mound. It was erected on the Sowiniec hill in the Wolski Forest in the 1930s. Its construction has been perfectly captured in the photographs (please see the one above).
5, 6, 7, or…even 8 mounds?!
There are still, or have already been removed, slightly smaller mounds in Krakow. The several-meter-high Esterki Mound was to be located on the present premises of the Wawel sports club at ul. Glowacki. The Mound of the Republic of Krakow, which was located in the Planty Park at the entrance to the underpass leading to the Main Railway Station, has also disappeared from the map of Krakow. According to historians, there was still a so-called The Wawel Mound, which was removed by the Austrians at the beginning of the 19th century.
In 1997, the 7-meter high mound of John Paul II was built in Dębniki. Thus, we now officially have 5 mounds in Krakow.
A perfect walk for spring & autumn weather
If you wish to track and have a really nice walk, there is an Youtube video on that topic.
Virtual hike: Entrance to the 4 mounds of Krakow, Poland
🏞️ Route: Wanda Mound (226 m a.s.l; 50.070149, 20.068030 ) – Krakus Mound (245 m a.s.l; 50.038039, 19.958403) – Kościuszko Mound (293 m a.s.l; 50.054789, 19.893408) – Piłsudski Mound (355 m a.s.l; 50.060001, 19.847102)
🆔 Trail designation: green trail (Salwator – Piłsudski Mound)
📏 Length: about 5.7 km
⏲️ Walking time: about 1:50 h ↗️ Sum of approaches: 257 m ↘️ Sum down: 121 m
There is a tourist map you should also check and make sure you also drop by the Hiking Trails page for more info on the trail.
And you can always pop me a line and ask me anything about the mounds and the trails. I highly recommend them!
For the first time at Wawel, all the preserved royal tapestries will be made available to visitors. The exhibition “All tapestries of the king. Returns 2021-1961-1921” will be available until October 31st. – This exhibition is supposed to be a magnet attracting tourists to Wawel, allows you to experience something unusual – says Andrzej Betlej, director of the Wawel Royal Castle. The exhibition is accompanied by works by contemporary artists, a rich program of educational events and publications.
Hidden from the Swedes, robbed at the behest of Tsarina Katarzyna, taken by the Vistula galley three days before the Germans entered Krakow in 1939. During the war, valuable Wawel monuments found their way first to Romania, then to France and, via England, to Canada.
For the first time, all preserved Wawel tapestries will be presented to visitors in the interiors for which they were created. From March 18, at the Wawel Royal Castle, the exhibition “All the King’s tapestries. Returns 2021-1961-1921”.
This exhibition is not only works but also a story. This is the history of these tapestries, it is also the history of the great undertaking which is the conservation of tapestries, as well as a great educational story. All three themes are very much present at this exhibition.
Dr hab. Andrzej Betlej, director of the Wawel Royal Castle
The collection of Wawel tapestries was made in the years 1550-1560 in workshops in Brussels. The fabrics are made of wool and silk as well as silver and silver gilded threads. Among the exhibits presented at Wawel, you can see one of the tapestries after recent conservation, which to some extent has regained its original color.
This is a unique exhibition showing the entire stock of the most important 16th-century tapestry in Poland, one of the most important and interesting in Europe. For the first time, we show fabrics that viewers have never been able to see. We tried to show it in reverse chronology, we start with two contemporary works of art that were created especially for this exhibition, to go from 1961 to 1921, to end up in the Senator’s Hall in 1553.
Magdalena Ozga, curator of the exhibition
The contemporary context, which is an introduction to the exhibition, are the works of Mirosław Białka and Marcin Maciejowski, who commented on the contemporary aspect of receiving tapestries and the mapping that is the key to reading the reverse narrative of the exhibition.
After a 5-month exhibition, some tapestries will be returned to museum warehouses. It is possible that part of the collection will be presented at special shows in Europe.
The exhibition is to commemorate the return of the royal tapestries – on March 18, 1961, when the ceremonial display of tapestries took place after their return from Canada, and on March 18, 1921, when under the Riga Peace Treaty, a collection of tapestries and people stolen during the Third Partition of Poland was brought from Russia, thanks to which the tapestries survived.
I would like the exhibition to be remembered as a monument to the importance of the royal foundation, as a commemoration of those who created the collection and cared for it for centuries – emphasized Andrzej Betlej.
Andrzej Betlej
The exhibition is accompanied by numerous publications, incl. richly illustrated album “Arrasa Zygmunt August”, “Essays on the tapestries of King Zygmunt August” by Magdalena Piwocka and a program of educational events, including the first match of a jerk at Wawel (June 19), culinary reconstruction of the wedding of Zygmunt August and Katarzyna Habsburgian Women (19 July), or monthly meetings with conservators who will introduce the backstage of their work on the renovation of tapestries (March 31, April 21, May 26, June 23, July 21, August 25, September 22, October 13). , noon)
The exhibition “All the King’s Tapestries. Returns 2021-1961-1921” will be available from March 18 to October 31.
I, for one, look forward to visiting this expo, once the exhibition and Wawel Museum will open!
During the first recruitment, as many as 35 people applied for the position of the Krakow bugler, but unfortunately, no one was recruited. The last candidates fell on fitness tests.
If at first you don’t succeed… try again!
After the first attempt was unsuccessful, the second recruitment for the position of bugle caller in the tower of St. Mary’s Church began. The previous competition did not bring satisfactory results in terms of the physical fitness of the job applicants, but it did confirm their musical skills. Ultimately, two people will be selected in the second call.
We would like to hire two people in order to be able to safely plan schedules and be able to grant holidays at the right time. The holiday season is approaching and we hope that the second recruitment will be successful.
Bartłomiej Rosiek, city spokesman for Krakow firefighters
Recruitment has been running since December
The Krakow fire brigade, just before Christmas, started recruiting for the position of a bugler in the St. Mary’s Tower. It’s exactly about an intern in the preparatory service (ultimately a senior lifeguard), but the main task is to play the bugle call during 24-hour service. The reason for the recruitment is the retirement of Jan Sergiel, one of the current buglers. The Guard hopes that the number of bugle callers will be extended by two jobs.
To become a bugler firefighter you have to go through a tedious recruitment process that will take many weeks. Recruitment consists of 7 stages. What requirements must a candidate for bugler meet? In addition to the obvious ability to play the trumpet, you need, among others, good physical condition. In addition, formal requirements, such as Polish citizenship, full public rights, and education at least secondary or sector-specific.
You have to come with your own trumpet
Playing the trumpet is the second stage of recruitment for a bugler. Then, the ability to play this essential instrument is checked. Importantly, you have to present your own trumpet for recruitment.
After each 24-hour shift, buglers have 48 hours of rest. So, as you can easily guess, there are several buglingists. Together with retiring Jan Sergiel, there are 6 of them. However, PSP in Krakow wants to increase their number.
We have six positions, and we want to have seven after recruitment, hence the recruitment for two positions. Both men and women can apply.
Bartłomiej Rosiek, city spokesman for Krakow firefighters
There will be no presentation at the Adam Mickiewicz monument on the Main Square, and no traditional march. This year, the coronavirus pandemic caused the 78th Krakow Nativity Scenes Competition to take place in a different form.
The History of the #Szopki Contest
The Krakow Nativity Scenes Competition has a rich history. It was initiated in 1937. Then, during the German occupation, it had to be interrupted, but right after the war, this tradition was returned. Since 1946, it has been organized by the Krakow Museum.
Stay true to tradition!
The Krakow nativity scene is the culmination of several months or even several years of work. The aim of the competition is to uphold the tradition of nativity scene crafts and to popularize this unique element of urban folklore.
The 78th Krakow Nativity Scene Competition during the epidemic will be organized in a completely different form.
Małgorzata Niechaj, curator of the Krakow Museum
The competition will go online!
The jury will be in session on the first Thursday of December. Since some of the jurors will not be able to see the nativity scenes directly, and we cannot accumulate so many people at the same time, from November 16 to 30, we started to host nativity scenes in Celestat – the curatorinformed.
The curator of the Krakow Museum presented the procedure for accepting and registering nativity scenes. “Each of them is photographed. In addition, we make videos of those with moving parts, lighting. The nativity scenes are then described and sent to the jurors. On this basis, the cribs will be scored with points, we will award prizes during a remote session” – says Małgorzata Niechaj.
Deadline & Winners Announcement
The deadline for announcing the results of the competition, which will take place on Sunday, December 6, has been kept. Punctually at 14, the director of the Krakow Museum, Niezabitowski (chairman of the jury) will officially announce the results of the nativity scene competition on-line, on the YouTube platform, and on social media. As the curator admitted, the interest in the competition exceeded the expectations of the organizers. The largest nativity scenes are to appear in Celestat on Monday.
Several categories = several prizes
The nativity scene competition is held in several categories, not only age categories: up to 8 years old, through family nativity scenes, youth nativity scenes, and seniors – over 18 years of age, and in terms of size: miniature nativity scenes, small, medium and large nativity scenes.
The so far sent cribs are dominated by the architecture of the Old Kraków, the Cathedral, Kraków churches, and the Wawel Castle, although an interesting crib is a crib containing a Curia building with a papal window and a popemobile, or a crib with elements of the Basilica of Divine Mercy.
Szopka with COVID19 masks!
Most of the sent nativity scenes also contain elements referring to the anniversary of the birth of St. John Paul II and the pandemic that has prevailed since the beginning of the year (dolls with masks). There is also a nativity scene probably of a sports club lover – Cracovia and Wisła, referring to their derby. There were also cribs containing a viewing balloon over the Vistula River.
In the nativity scene by the master of the Krakow nativity scene, Maciek Moszew, the author portrayed himself at the base with an inscription informing that he is participating in the Krakow Nativity Scene for the 75th time.
UNESCO Acknowledgment
For many years, the Museum of Krakow has not only been looking after the nativity scene and its promotion both at home and abroad, but also documents the phenomenon of Krakow nativity scenes, which in 2018 was entered on the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Read the article in Polish language, on Gazeta Krakowska site.
During the Second World War, Krakow was ruled by the Third Reich. What were the streets and squares like in 1939-1944? How was life in the city? See photos from the German album “Krakau” published in 1944.
For more photos of Krakow 1944, I suggest also looking up this article from Gazeta Krakowska (in the Polish language).
I wanted to visit this museum for a long while… I got to step inside it for the first time on the 27th of September, 2020.
What was the occasion? The Podgorze Open Days 2020 💓
How did I get to visit it? There was a free tour of the museum, announced. The tour was in the English language – run by Pawel M. from #goodeventswithpawel (not my first tour with Pawel, and I highly recommend it👌).
How long did it take? The museum tour took about 1 hour. Sometimes I wish we had a bit more time to spare and look around, but if you will visit it on your own, make sure to book yourself a bit more time.
About the Muzeum Podgorza
Opened in May 2018, this museum chronologically traces the history and legends of the fascinating Podgórze district. It starts thoroughly from the time of Krakus Mound and runs through its time as an independent city in Austrian Galicia. Doesn’t stop at the integration into greater Kraków, or the tragedy of WWII, but brings you all the way up to the present day.
With historical artifacts, documents and photography, there are also multimedia displays and a free audio guide (in English and Polish). The audio guide augments the exhibits and there is also a photography exhibit upstairs. The kids will enjoy the educational room for them, located in the basement.
#DidYouKnow
Though well off the tourist trail, the location is actually significant. It was at this former Austrian barracks building in 1918 that Polish officers in the Austrian Army organized a bloodless rebellion and ‘liberated’ Podgórze, then Kraków, from Austrian occupation, thus making Podgórze the first place in Poland to regain independence after WWI. That story and more are inside, so let me tell you a bit more about it!
My experience with Muzeum Podgorza
The Museum tour run by Pawel M. from #goodeventswithpawel was done through the eyes of a local, a man in love with the history of the place he lives in (and he actually lives in Podgorze district!). He had the patience and answered our questions, yet stuck to the 1 hour promised tour, which was filled with plenty of information to enrich everyone.
A Celtic Mound in Krakow
The exhibition starts from the Mound of Krakow (one of Krakow’s 4 man-made mounds). We find out that probably the Mound of Krakow (Krakus Mound) and the Wanda Mound are probably Celtic, not slavic – as the locals would like it to be 😉 We also find out that the oldest monastery in Poland is the St. Benedict’s Church, located near the Krakus mound.
How can we tell that it was done by the Celts? Well… one of the great celebrations done on the Krakus Mound is Beltane (or Beltain – the Gaelic May Day festival). Most commonly it is held on 1 May, or about halfway between the spring equinox and summer solstice. Historically, it was widely observed throughout Ireland, Scotland, and the Isle of Man. We, of course, celebrate it in Poland as well, in Krakow. Coincidence? I think not!
The Royal Free City of Podgórze
One of the most important things to trade-in, in Medieval Times, was salt. People back then did not have refrigerators, the only thing that would stop products from spoiling was salt – and the salt mines around Krakow always had plenty of that!
The transport of salt during the Medieval Ages was done by water – via the Vistula River. In the 18th century, in 1784, the city was granted the city status, as the Royal Free City of Podgórze. It was established/founded by the Austrian-Hungary Emperor Joseph the 2nd – the border with Austria being located on the Vistula River!
#DidYouKnow
You might not know this, but…
1. The wonderful bridge that connects Kazimierz to Podgorze, the Kładka Ojca Bernatka was called before the Franz Joseph Bridge.
2. There was a large colonization movement – giving Podgorze the name of “Small America”. Podgorze was more liberal, where Krakow was more bourgeois. Pogorgze was Austrian, though a free city! And was granted city rights, with very attractive tax privileges. This attracted entrepreneurs, merchants, and craftsmen from the Austrian Empire.
Jews and workarounds
The exhibition in Muzeum Podgorza has special displays also on the life of Jews in Podgorze, but does not focus on the Holocaust events as much as one would think. Muzeum Podgorza is a museum of the City of Podgorze, of the district that was annexed to Krakow, not a museum about World War II.
With Pawel, from #goodeventswithpawel I’ve found out many interesting facts about the life of Jewish people in the Royal City of Podgorze. For example, I learned that steps inside their homes do not count for Jews when they have Shabbat. Love of God, time with family, reconnecting with friends and with oneself – all these fulfill the commandment to “remember” Shabbat. So working during it is a total NO!
However, the workaround was that steps done inside one’s home would not count. The houses are always walled against walls, and they would tie them with a rope, making them be considered as one house. So if you would like to go buy some bread from the neighbor, 2-3 houses away, you could do that by going from one house to another. At it would not be considered as leaving your house and breaking the Shabbat.
Podgorze district has light before Krakow!
The first discussions of the merger between the City of Krakow and the City of Podgorze took place at the beginning of the 20th century.
A joint “Agreement concerning the merger of the Royal Free Town of Podgórze with the Royal Capital of Kraków” was drawn up and signed on 7 June 1913. The merger took place on 1 July 1915. A few days later, on 4 July 1915, on Krakus Bridge, the last mayor of Podgórze, Franciszek Maryewski, and the mayor of Kraków, Juliusz Leo, shook hands, symbolically merging the two towns.
But at the time, Podgorze was much more advanced in terms of setup than Krakow. Podgorze even had electricity before Krakow – 5 years before them!!! They had their own power plant (The Municipal Power Plant in Podgórze) that was established in 1899-1900 at 4 Nadwiślańska Street.
Muzeum Podgorza is a museum about the district, done by the district
Throughout the Muzeum Podgorza you can feel that the museum is one-of-a-kind. It is one of Krakow’s Hidden Gems, and – though it may not resonate much with most tourists – it is a work of beauty and love. It shows the love of the locals for their home-place, their love for history, and their passion for making sure none of this gets forgotten.
How to visit Muzeum Podgorza
Unfortunately, now all museums are closed, due to Coronavirus. But once this madness clears up, I suggest you check their website and visit it!
There is the special “Discover Podgorze!” (PL: “Odkryj Podgorze”) route that offers the combined ticket of 3 museums at a lower price. The 3 branches included are Museum of Podgorze + The Eagle Pharmacy + Oskar Schindler’s Enamelware Factory. Once the ticket is bought, the museums can be visited within 3 days of their purchase! The ticket is available at the ticket office of each of the above-mentioned branches and the Visitor Service Center.
NOTE!!! Children up to 7 years old – free admission!
A while back I was writing an article on my former blog page about the fact that we should not use the wording “Polish Death Camps”. I still stand by this idea and I firmly believe that the people referring to concentration camps run by Nazis should refer to them as “German Death Camps in Poland”.
Warsaw VS Krakow – Whom to spare?
When the German Occupation hit Poland and the Nazis were searching for places to build their Death Camps they choose Poland, as Poland is the heart of Europe – DEAD CENTER on the map. Back when the occupation started in 1939, the borders of Poland were very different than they are now and the closest city to the border with Germany was actually Krakow, a couple of hours away.
When the Polish Government looked upon what could be spared and whatnot, they agreed that they should first allow the Nazi to take over Krakow, so the city and its inhabitants would be safe – not as much can be said about Warsaw, that put up a great fight and was torn to the ground approximately 90%, no stone being unturned.
Polish Army barracks turned into slaughtering houses…
Krakow manages to maintain its old-time beauty, though it also faced horrible horrors in its wake. When the Nazis build Auschwitz – the most well known Death Camp of the Holocaust – they chose Oswiecim. Oswiecim was a remote village, so they would do their horrible deeds without being watched. It was previously a Polish Army barracks but nowadays nobody mentions that anymore…
Nazi Germany wanted to destroy Poland
The purpose of the Nazis was to destroy Poland, enslave it’s people and take the land – make Germany bigger and stronger in the process. They did not plan the same as they did in France or Norway where they created governments that would collaborate with the German one.
By the end of World War II, 6 million Polish people have been murdered, including 3 million Jews (almost half of the Jews killed during the Holocaust). In February 2018, the president of Poland signed legislation making it a crime to suggest that Poland bore any responsibility for the atrocities committed by Nazi Germany. This has infuriated certain historians and the Israeli government.
The law has 2 parts:
1) outlaws the phrase “Polish Death Camps” – even scholars agree the term is very misleading, considering the fact that the camps were built and controlled by Nazi Germany;
2) it is a crime – punishable by a fine of up to 3 years in prison – to accuse “the Polish nation” of complicity in the Holocaust and other Nazi atrocities.
What do Israeli people think of the law?
Naftali Bennett, Israel’s education minister, criticized the law: “The blood of Polish Jews cries from the ground, and no law will silence it”.
On another hand, Yad Vashem, the Holocaust Remembrance Center in Jerusalem, formally recognized more than 6700 gentiles in Poland as “righteous among the nations” because they risked their lives to save the Jews – more so than ANY other country in Europe! The estimates suggest that up to 35000 Polish Jews may have been saved through their efforts. The Center made an official statement saying that the term “Polish Death Camps” was without a doubt a historical misinterpretation, but they cannot agree with the second part of the law, erasing all blame from Poland.
What do I believe?
I believe that the Polish state was not complicit to the horrors of the Holocaust, yet that many Polish people are to blame for the acts that they carried out. Each story has its light and dark side, it’s heroes and it’s foes. We do have righteous people who have saved many Jews, yet we also have Polish people that blew covers, picked on Jewish people out of the darkness of their heart, or simply by trying to protect their lives, family, or their assets. They chose themselves over others, but whom are we to judge – would we have done the same, given the situation? You can’t know for a fact, can’t you?!
#DidYouKnow that Poland was the only country where if you would have hidden a Jews and you would be found out, both the Jews, yourself, and your family would be immediately executed? Also, Poland has sustained the heaviest losses during the Second World War with up to 17% of its entire population vs. Russia – 14% and Germany – 10%. Not to mention Poland bring the only occupied country that had it’s government immediately liquidated, it’s army disbanded and schools and universities closed (their professors and “grey minds” being the first ones taken away and locked up/executed).
If you will blame the individuals, the Polish people that acted against the Jews, than why would you not blame the Jews that acted against the Jews? You would then be implicitly blaming the Jewish community for the Holocaust. I know that sounds horrible and absurd, but is it not what people are doing when they say Poland is to blame?
*** This article is the redone of the original article that can be found here, on my previous blog page***
Yours very much truly, The Twisted Red Ladybug That Loves Poland
No matter where you come from if you ever visited Kraków and if you ever saw photos from the city, there are 2 landmarks that this magical place is the most connected to Wawel Castle and the Sukiennice (EN: Cloth Hall). Every resident of the city knows it but might you also know its history?
The term Sukiennice refers to the trade of textiles and fabric, which is why it is also called Kraków’s Cloth Hall. Right now, it is daily visited by thousands of locals and tourists, that just pass through Old Town Kraków or that want to just stay still and enjoy the view. Being one of the biggest tourist attractions in Kraków, you can surely spend some more time on it, buying some souvenirs or enjoying a lemonade at Cafe Szal (on the 1st floor – trust me, the view is WORTH IT!).
Sukiennice – its beginnings and the great fire!
The history of Sukiennice (EN: Cloth Hall) begins with the history of Kraków in the mid-13th century. Part of the process of establishing Kraków was to indicate the place where the most important thing for the city would take place: trading goods. Therefore, a rectangular area was marked out in the middle of the Market Square for stalls in two rows, closed on the shorter sides with bars. Prince Bolesław the Chaste promised to build stalls for the people to sell their goods and he stuck to his word!
This place/area was turned into a brick building in the times of Casimir the Great. In the 14th century, he approved to make it into a real, Gothic market building made of red brick. Fast-forwarding to 2 centuries later: Sukiennice was destroyed by fire and only a few parts survived.
Its Renaissance form, known to all, with a characteristic attic and unique architectural details, is the result of a reconstruction in the 16th century and renovation in the 19th century. The Sukiennice is surrounded by arcades on all sides – giving it an unique look and being the top location to take very Instagram friendly photos. Inside the Sukiennice there is a vaulted ceiling and there are crests of Poland’s cities on the walls.
Not all the original Sukiennice pieces remain
To be noted that before the aforementioned renovation, the Sukiennice had outbuildings that do not exist today, which in the middle of the penultimate century were, like many Kraków buildings, in a deplorable condition. Hence, it was decided to demolish them and restore the Cloth Hall. In addition, it was decided that on the first floor, in a place where various kinds of trinkets were sold in the past centuries, the National Museum will be located.
The branch of the National Museum of Kraków holds the largest permanent exhibit of 19th-century Polish painting and sculpture, in 4 grand exhibition halls arranged by historical period and the theme extending into an entire artistic epoch. It is definitely worth your time and money!
The Sukiennice (Cloth Hall) today
So what does the Cloth Hall look like today? What is its function?
It is difficult to answer with one sentence because its function is multiple. Currently, it is the seat of branches of 2 museums – the Gallery of 19th-Century Polish Art of the National Museum of Kraków and the Underground Market Museum. Sukiennice (EN: Cloth Hall) also has stalls, souvenir shops, restaurants, including one of the icons of Krakow’s café life, the Noworolski Cafe.
It is also a living lesson in history and art because we can see, for example, a symbol of the Magdeburg Law, which was used in Kraków in the past. You can also find out where torches illuminating the darkness in the past centuries were put out (hint: check the side of the Sukiennice, as you enter – a set of small holes in the side).
Today I thought I might do something special with you: take you on a ride of 30 Typical Things One Could Do In Krakow 🙂 if ever you are in the area. These things are something that I do quite often, things that a local (a Cracovian) would do, things that you should also try (at least once) in order to feel the vibe of the city. So without further ado… here is the list:
1. Enjoy the view of the Barbakan (The Barbican) – the fortified outpost is a great spot to take many lovely pictures or just rest on a bench in the Planty area (the green park/circle around the Old Town). #DidYouKnow it is one of only 3 such fortified outposts still surviving in Europe? And it is also the best-preserved one!
2. Start the Royal Tour on the Royal Road that links the Barbakan – Brama Florianska (St. Florian’s Gate) – Florianska Street – Main Square to Grodzka – Wawel Castle. If you live in Krakow you probably lost count of how many times you want by foot on these cobble-stoned roads.
3. Enjoy the little entrances and pieces if unique architecture on the Florianska street – don’t just look at the shops (they will stay there for the next time you will pass through), but raise your eyes to the first floor or even above and see all the beautiful bits and pieces from the facade. These buildings have survived centuries and have so much to tell!
Vie of Mariacki Kosciol from the Underground Museum in Krakow, Poland
4. Make sure you get in front of the Mariacki Kosciol (St.Mary’s Church) a few minutes before the hour strikes and you listen to the Hejnal – it does have it is own legend 😉 so make sure to read it! When the trumpet stops paying, wave to the man in the tower – if he waves back it brings good luck!
5. Go inside the Mariacki Kosciol and listen to the ceremony. You might not understand it, but if you sit quietly and you pray, you might want to look up to the sky (that is… the ceiling). The ceiling is all blue, like the sky at dawn, and there are hundreds of sparkling stars on it. It was painted by the great Polish Painter: Jan Matejko.
Krakow’s Main Market Square and its pigeons
6. Do not feed the pigeons! Only the foreigners, the visitors do that, and it is something that is very much frowned upon nowadays. They are called “Flying rats” as they love to spread the diseases…
The view from Cafe Szal (Sukiennice) – Krakow, Poland
7. Get on the 1st floor of the Sukiennice (The Cloth Hall) – the entrance on the Mariacki Church side, close to the middle. Take the stairs/lift up to the 1st floor and enjoy a szarlotka (that is Polish for apple pie) at Cafe Szal. The view is AMAZING!
8. If you are at the Main Square at lunch, you need to drop by the Pod Sukiennice and have a traditional meal. Sundays the specialty of the house is rosol (that’s is Polish for chicken soup/broth with noodles).
They also have a mean Creme Brulee in Charlotte 😉 – Plac Szczepanski, Krakow, Poland
9. If you are around the Main square at breakfast time you can queue for something really nice at Charlotte, on Plac Szczepanski. The place does not take reservations and it is always full so you will have to stand in line… but they do have homemade goodies!
10. You should take a small detour to the Jagiellonian University quarters and listen to Gaudeamus Igitur and typical Polish song played by the clock inside the Collegium Maius courtyard. It plays at 11, 13, 15 o’clock each day. Not many know about it, it is a hidden gem. It is not like the Prague astronomy clock but still, it is worth your time 🙂
Hot chocolate at Nowa Prowincja – Krakow, Poland
11. If the weather outside is gloomy, raining, or freezing cold… I always like to head over to Nowa Prowincja. It has the best hot chocolate in town! They come with whipped cream and sour cherry alcohol inside!
12. Many locals also prefer the Pijalnia Czekolady Wedel when they wish for chocolate or they have a sweet tooth. You can order chocolate to go, or you can have it on the spot at the Main Market Square or in Galeria Krakowska.
13. As we are still on the topic of food, I believe it is worth mentioning one of the best homemade food places in Krakow: Babcia Malina (that is Polish for Grandmother Raspberry). There are 2 places: one on Slawkowska and one just in front of the Juliusz Slowacki Theater. You can always order take-away (we do that often…). They have the best deep-fried meat pierogi & the best zurek in town!
St. Peter and Paul’s Church, Grodzka – Krakow, Poland
14. Have a look at the only baroque church in Krakow: St. Peter and Paul’s Church (Sw. Piotr i Pawla) on Grodzka. The front always remained me of the Vatican DO let me know if you get the same vibe from it 🙂
15. Go visit the “Kings of Old” – The Wawel Cathedral holds the tombs of all the Kings and Queens of Poland. It is worth your while, just for the history lesson alone.
16. Go see the biggest bell in Krakow (probably of all Poland!): Sigismund Bell. It rings only on special occasions. The Bell used to ring when a King would die or when a new one would be coronated; it also did for the death of Pope John Paul the 2nd. It is said that if a young maiden touches it, then luck will come upon them and they shall be married within the year! The bell takes at least 4 grown men to start moving it…
A view of the Wawel Cathedral – Krakow, Poland
17. If it is summertime, take a stride in the inner garden and courtyard of the Wawel Castle. In springtime, when the magnolia blossoms, it is indeed a sight for sore eyes!
18. If you are a yoga/pilates enthusiast, you might like to know that one of the 7 chakra points in the world is located inside Wawel’s Castle inner courtyard. There are many people who come visit, lean against the wall, touch it, stroke it, and “get inspired”!
19. I don’t know about you, but I absolutely love museums. Every Sunday the Krakow National Museum branches are open for free. Mondays they are usually all closed down, resuming the activity fresh Tuesday morning. Visiting museums for free, on Sunday’s, is a very local thing 😉
The mummies at the Czartoryski Museum – Krakow, Poland
20. If you are in love with paintings, you should know that “The Lady With The Ermine” by Leonardo Da Vinci (his second most famous painting after the “Mona Lisa”) can be found at the National Museum in Krakow. And you can see it way more up-close-and-personal than the Smiling Mona. It is not crowded and miles away!
21. In love with history and especially ancient history? Then you should definitely drop by and check out the mummies (including one of a cat!) & read parts of The Book of Dead at the Czartoryski Museum.
22. A stroll along the Vistula River is always a very pleasurable thing to do. You can admire the sunset over the water and feed the swans or the seagulls.
23. Visit the KładkaOjca Bernatka – the “pedestrian bridge only” in Krakow. It also is named Love Locks Bridge as people tend to put locks and throw away the key (in the name of love). At nighttime it is very colourful and the artistic sculptures/installations make it even more attractive.
Vistula River & Kładka Ojca Bernatka- Krakow, Poland
24. Do go and pay your respects at the Plac Bohaterow Ghetta (The Square of The Heroes of the Ghetto). #DidYouKnow that each chair there signifies 1000 of people that were killed in the labor camps of Auschwitz and Plaszow? Do not sit on them – it is disrespectful!
25. If you enjoy StreetArt, Krakow has some amazing pieces to offer for the eye – most of them are in Old Town, Kazimierz, and Podgorze. Take the stroll along the Vistula River, as I have mentioned, and you will for sure see the floating pink pig on the waters… funny thing 😉
Kazimierz Mural – Krakow, Poland
26. A very local thing to do, when going out to part in Kazimierz, is to drop by and eat sausage from the communist blue van. Located in front of Hala Targowa, the van can be found during the weekends – it is hard to miss out on it, just follow the people queueing in! They may not be the best ones, but they are a 40+-year-old tradition. The place has been there since the 80s!
27. Partying in Kazimierz is a must, and the fast-food of choice is always the same: zapiekanka at Plac Nowy. That is kinda like a pizza… a baguette sliced in half – the long way – and with a lot of toppings. People say that Endzior makes the best, but I have found that others in Plac Nowy make great ones too. Also… when you are hammered… they all taste the same!
28. There are 4 mounds in Krakow – Polish people name them Kopiec.My favourites are Kopiec Koszciuski and Krakusa – pick one that you would like and make sure you get there before sunset. Sunset on Kopiec gets you a large view of the city and peaceful surroundings where you can enjoy the sun setting down – great photo opportunities also!
29. Enjoy one of the smaller movie theatres and forget those Multiplex, Multikino, Cinema City huge spaces. Go local and enjoy a more intimate space, smaller and different from the rest you can choose from Kino Ars, Kino Pod Baranami, Kino Agrafka, Kino Kijow… They show European selection of movies as well 😉 in Kino Pod Baranami I was even able to see Romanian movies with Polish subs!
Mushrooms hand-picked locally – Nowy Kleparz Market – Krakow, Poland
30. Shop locally – at least while in Poland, make sure you try out the local markets. Don’t go buying things from big chains (Carrefour, Auchan) but support the local economy by purchasing products from the local farmers. Make sure you have change though, as you cannot pay by card there. In Krakow, I recommend 2 markets very close to the Old Town: Stary Kleparz and Nowy Kleparz. In Kazmierz you can try Plac Nowy or Hala Targowa.
“Gardens, Courtyards, St. Gereon’s Church” is a new Wawel sightseeing route launched on July 30th, 2020. Walking among inaccessible and charming places, you will be able to see the unique Wawel.
“Gardens, Courtyards, St. Gereon’s Church” – NEW Wawel sightseeing route Photo by Anna Kaczmarz – Dziennik Polski – Polska Press
“Lost Wawel” exhibition & the new route
The “Gardens, Courtyards, St. Gereon’s Church” route begins with the “Lost Wawel” exhibition, on the model of the 18th-century Wawel Castle.
The next points of the route are: Courtyard called Batory, the archaeological and architectural reserve of the church of St. Gereon and the Church of St. Mary of Egypt, the Arcade Courtyard, the entrance hall called Tatarska, the northern slopes of the castle and the Royal Gardens.
“Gardens, Courtyards, St. Gereon’s Church” – NEW Wawel sightseeing route Photo by Adam Wojnar – Polska Press
Opening hours and prices
The route is open on dry days from 30 July. Visiting the route takes approx. 90 minutes and is only possible with a guide.
Tickets are 25 PLN and 15 PLN reduced.
Make sure to put that on your list 😉
Yours truly,
The Twisted Red LadyBug, Bringing You The Latest News 🙂
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